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^
BREAD
FACTS
SECOND EDITION
RESEARCH PRODUCTS DE
WARD BAKING CC
NEW YORK
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Copyright 1920
by
Ward Baking Company
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INTRODUCTION
The American baking industry found itself
during the war. The fundamental importance
of bread as the main food, the lowest-price
food, the food which contains more of the
elements of nutrition needed in the daily
diet of both young and old than any other
single food of general consumption was pro-
claimed by government agencies in every
country. With sufficient bread and milk the
children were safe from hunger; were well fed.
Bread became as it always has been, the main
food of the soldier. With more bread
during the war the people were better fed
for both health and labor, than they are
generally fed.
Consumers were taught the larger food
value of bread during the war days. Business
men from all ranks, called to help in the
mobilization of the country's resources or in
the equitable distribution and conservation
of the food supplies, saw the facts as never
before and with common consent placed bread
in the front rank of national industrial
BREAD FACTS
importance. Food scientists, from govern-
ment and state departments, from universities,
large and small, and from private laboratories
turned their first attention to bread and
emphasized it as the one food to be protected
and an adequate supply maintained. House-
wives, through direct governmental, commer-
cial and trade publications, were told about
the food value of bread, about its depend-
ability as the main food for the family — ^were
brought to look at bread in a new, a larger
and a more important food light — amounting
to an advertising value that could not have
been purchased at any price.
The economies of milling and baking were
studied by both governmental commissions
and by masters in the economics of practical
business. From the standpoint of soundness,
service and the absence of profiteering not
another industry stood a better, a cleaner test.
The economy and the better general quality
of bread produced from the modern methods
of the modern baker were compared by these
same disinterested agencies, with the wastes,
often baking failures and higher costs of most
BREAD FACTS
of the home baking — ^again to the credit of the
baking industry.
Chemistry and physics, bacteriology and
the other sciences as they apply to the growing
of cereals, to the transportation and storage
of grain against spoilage, to milling, to baking
and to the accessory materials — yeast and
yeast foods, milk and malt extracts, sugars,
fats and salt — were put to work in these
fields as never before. The pioneer scientific
work formerly done by the few was at last
acclaimed as a benefaction. Today, domestic
science workers are seriously studying bread
with more of direct interest in the work, the
methods and product of the bakery. Milling
companies and bakers are turning, with more
dependence, to laboratory control as an aid to
practical experience. Schools and colleges are
giving the sciences, as applied to cereals and
bread, more preeminence in their courses.
Out of it all the American baking industry has
established the American Institute of Baking
as the cap sheaf for continuous, deep and
thorough research, for the teaching of sound
and practical facts about bread and baking.
BREAD FACTS
and for service to all who seek the aid of
science in baking problems.
At no other time has the American house-
wife who does her own baking, or who does
not put enough bread into the daily diet of
her family been more receptive towards the
good baker and good bread.
With all these facts before us we have con-
ceived the idea of assembling for the baker
some practical hints on better bread making,
the food value of bread, applied science in the
bakery and other important facts, all of which
we have published in this little volume and
which we hope may prove of some service to
the trade in general and be a modest but
valuable instrument in improving the value
of the baker's loaf and help speed the coming
of the day when the housewife will rely en-
tirely on the baker for her daily supply of the
"staff of life".
BREAD FACTS
THE AMERICAN LOAF OF BREAD
The perfect loaf of bread has no written
rules. Science may find and describe the whys
but an artist makes the loaf. In no other
industry are there so many variables. The
flour, the yeast, the time and temperature, the
proving and baking must all be fitted one into
the other. In no other industry has the work
of standardization been more difficult. A
formula made out for one shop does not work
in another, unless the variable factors have
been stabilized towards one standard of ingred-
ients and method. If the public could know
the earnest care that goes into making a good
loaf of bread they could not keep from univer-
sal appreciative response.
There are two points to clear up in the public
mind about bread ; one is volume and the other
absorption. Volume, if not carried to the
point of over proving, means lightness, digest-
ibility and better bread. Bakers have com-
peted among themselves for volume. This
competition has been giving the public a slice
of bread in which the starch and protein
particles are better separated, one from the
8 BREAD FACTS
Other, ready for the action of the human diges-
tive processes. What is wanted in bread is
that each and every particle shall be opened,
opened to the fermentation actions which ren-
der it more wholesome, opened to the heat
which renders it better baked. So the baker
who studies expansion, works for expansion
and gets expansion, without sacrifice of flavor
— expansion with texture, even, finely divided
texture, silky texture, with the bread still full
of life, taste and wheat flavor — is doing as
much for the human stomach as for his indus-
try. Volume, with texture and flavor is the
first standard, both for the baker and the con-
sumer.
Another important point is absorption.
Much bread is turned out of inferior quality
because the yeast and its actions have not had
enough moisture during the fermentation. It
is easier to handle a dry loaf, than one more
moist. Most doughs are too dry, and the
resulting bread lacks in the eating qualities
desired by the consumer. The yeast must have
proper moisture, sufficient oxygen and proper
food. Yeast foods are treated under a separate
BREAD FACTS
chapter. But it may be stated here that the
perfect loaf must have, among other things,
sufficient absorption and oxygen during the
mixing and fermentation.
Proper mixing is another factor. The gluten
is conserved and developed in the mixing, or
injured, according to the perfection of the
method. The high speed mixer produces a
result which hand mixing cannot attain.
Time and temperature, the strength and
quantity of the yeast, fitted into the baking
quality of the flour, systematic operation
of the shop according to schedule, the proof,
the temperature and condition of the heat
and moisture in the oven, the humidity
under which the doughs are raised, proofed
and baked are, all, factors entering into
the kind of loaf that wins and holds the
consumer.
Wheat flour is made into many products and
combined with many materials — ^sugar, nuts,
fruits, spices, eggs, icings and other ingredients
to make it into a finished food; but the stan-
dard product from the bakery is the every day
loaf, which the consumer will eat at each meal
lo BREAD FACTS
I
not
with Other food and not tire of. The typical
American loaf is developed from what may be
termed the American home-made loaf. Its
standards of excellence may be described as
follows :
. Full expansion with the top pulling, but
pulled loose from the sides.
2. Golden brown, or darker brown, depend-
ing upon oven steam, but in all cases showing
that the sugars in the flour and added to the
dough have not been used up through exces-
sive fermentation. Perfect bloom is indicative
of the sweet and better flavor. When this is
absent the loaf has less flavor and less qualities
which make it palatable.
3. When the loaf is cut open, fine, silky
texture, with the dough cells finely divided,
should accompany the full expansion. The
fine division of the cell walls puts the bread in
better condition for digestion and is character-
istic of a properly conducted fermentation.
The color of the crumb, or inside of the loaf,
should be clear white, with life, due to both the
finer division of the cell walls and to absence
of detrimental fermentation effect upon the
flour. The crumb should not crumble ; that is,
fall away in parts when it is cut, but should be
BREAD FACTS ii
firm. The flavor should be the sweet and
suggestive nutty flavor of wheat.
4. Such a loaf has good keeping qualities,
and is palatable several days after baking.
The standard American loaf is baked in a
pan, with a thin, rather than a thick crust as
distinguished from the types of hearth breads
where the amount of crust equals the amount
of inside crumb. It is true that there is a large
consumption of rolls and rye breads and
breads of theVienna or French type, but day in
and day out the American public prefer the
type of loaf which has been developed from the
kind that "Mother" made and baked in a pan.
The state of civilization and the prosperity
of a country can be judged by its bread. Every-
where, effort is made to leaven it so that it will
be more digestible. In parts of Sweden the rye
bread is baked at harvest and stored away. In
other Northern countries the bread is baked
into thin cakes, on hot stones. The Persian
makes a bread from rice and sour milk. In
many of the Oriental countries sour milk and
dough are set as the starter for the leavening
of bread. This method is known in our South
11 BREAD FACTS
as salt rising bread. The leavening is a bacterial
or biological action rather than a yeast or
plant action.
But it is to the standard American loaf that
the baker in this country can well turn for
success, sticking to a few types, centering on
quality in the few, rather than on large variety.
BREAD FACTS ly
THE FOOD VALUE OF BREAD
Life is built up in steps; first from the soil,
in the form of the plants; and then from the
plant into the form of animal, and most animal
life goes farther and feeds on other animals.
Even in human nutrition the most economic
way is to utilize, direct, larger quantities of
grain, roots and plants for food. Take a
bushel of wheat, for example: The human
system converts over 90 per cent into nutri-
tive value. But, if the bushel of wheat or
other grain is used in the production of
animal foods, the cow converts eighteen per
cent into milk food; the pig fifteen and one-
half per cent into pork food ; poultry five and
one-tenth per cent in the production of eggs,
and four and two-tenths per cent in the pro-
duction of dressed poultry; the lamb three
and two-tenths per cent, and no wool; the
sheep two and six-tenths per cent, together
with wool, while the steer turns only two and
eight-tenths per cent of the grain into beef.
So that if a nation has but a given quantity
of grain foods with which to meet an abnormal
demand, or if it has a high cost of living
14 BREAD FACTS
problem, the people are vitally cx)ncerned
with that method of utilization which will
furnish the maximum amount of nutrition
for human consumption. In times of peace,
as well as war, bread, with its proper balance
with other needed food elements, constitutes
the economic food answer.
The time has come when we have sufficient
of dependable knowledge about foods, about
the nutritive value of bread, about the daily
food needs, to go to the public with definite
statements of the amount of bread that should,
for health, strength, proper nourishment and
proper economy, be put into the daily diet. In
this direction of definite advertising lies not
only opportunity for increased sales but for
service to the public. How much bread
should the child, the growing boy and girl,
the man or woman at work with muscle or
with mind eat each day? With what food com-
binations can bread be made the most ap-
petizing to the taste and most nourishing?
How does bread best combine with fruits and
vegetables, with jams and jellies, with soups
and meats, with eggs and puddings, with
BREAD FACTS 15
butter and other fats, with syrups and honey ?
What does it need to supplement its vitamines
and mineral salts ? A study of such facts leads
to but one conclusion — that each individual
should eat from a pound to a pound and a half
of bread per day, to be well and economically
fed, and that the public can be convinced of
this fact if the baker will come to know and
proclaim the full food facts.
The daily need in food elements are in
order of quantity:
Carbohydrates
Fats
Proteins
Mineral salts
Vitamines
The authorities in nutrition agree that the
average adult should eat daily:
Carbohydrates 500 Grams
Protein 100
Fats 50
Salt (Sodium Chloride) 10
Other Mineral Salts 9.85
Vitamines (quantities not determined).
« «
« 4
» »
» »
i6
BREAD FACTS
One pound of bread furnishes:
Carbohydrates 240 Grams
Protein 40.5
Fats 1 2. 1
Salt (Sodium Chloride) 6.7
Other mineral salts 2.78
The daily mineral salt needs are stated to be :
Salt (Sodium Chloride) 10 Grams
Potash 4.37
Phosphates 3.25
Sulphur 1.2
Lime i.o
Magnesia 02
Iron 01
Iodine, Fluorline, Bromine
and other minerals — small quantities.
One pound of white bread furnishes in
mineral salts:
Salt (Sodium Chloride) 6.7 Grams
Sulphur 1.08
Phosphates 98
Potash 43
Lime 14
Magnesia 14
Bromine 008
Iron 004
Other minerals traces
BREAD FACTS 17
Now bread furnishes the frame work of the
daily food need. And what the consumer
wants to know is just how to build onto the
frame work; just what other foods to add to
make the diet complete. The facts, free facts,
facts with the weight of undoubted authority,
facts gleaned through years of patient and
world-wide study and experiment, are waiting
now for the baker to fit them to his bread.
Bread is not only a valuable and economic
source of carbohydrates but wheat bread is
also the source of the best cereal proteins.
Wheat bread is then both a carbohydrate and
protein food, together with valuable quantities
of phosphates, potash, sulphur and the sodium
and chlorine added from the salt used in bread
making. White bread fumishes the more
digestible form of these carbohydrates and
proteins. Yeast bread, properly mixed, prop-
erly fermented and properly baked fur-
nishes these food elements in still more digest-
ible form. This is the reason why yeast bread
is the preferred form of bread in all lands
where wheat and rye are available — wheat and
rye because of their gluten content which
i8 BREAD FACTS
distinguish them from other cereals. The yeast
not only raises the bread but its enzymes act
on both the starch and the protein, rendering
these food elements more digestible and more
available for human nutrition.
As pointed out, carbohydrates are the chief
daily need in human nutrition. Bread fur-
nishes the cheapest, yeast bread the most
digestible, form of cereal carbohydrates ; and
in depending on bread for the energy-giving
carbohydrates, consumers can also obtain half of
their required protein supply.
Hunt and Atwater in Farmers' Bulletin 824
of the United States Department of Agricul-
ture have summarized the needs in nutrition,
especially from the standpoint of sufficient
protein, with reference to bread as follows:
"Since the protein foods include many of the
more expensive foods in common use, and since
an adequate supply of protein is essential to
the growth and upkeep of the body, it is
especially important for the housekeeper to
know how much her family needs and to be
able to choose the materials which, in her
particular circumstances, will best provide the
proper kind and amount."
BREAD FACTS iq
"The foods usually classed as rich in pro-
tein are : Milk and cheese, eggs, meat, poul-
try and fish; dried legumes, such as peas,
beans, cowpeas, soy beans, and peanuts; and
almond and some other nuts. Wheat, oats,
and some other cereals also furnish consider-
able amounts of protein. Milk is the best
source of protein for children. There is about
one-fourth ounce of protein in each of the fol-
lowing: One glass of milk, one egg, i 1-2 to 2
ounces of meat, i ounce of cheese, and 13
ounces of bread. A man at moderate mus-
cular work is believed to need about 3 1-2
ounces of protein a day, and a family consist-
ing of father, mother and three small children
about twelve ounces a day."
*7f is possible to plan an attractive and whole-
some diet in which one-half of the necessary pro-
tein is supplied by bread and other cereal foods
which are relatively cheap, ^*
In discussing the relative food values, the
true approach is to know just what food ele-
ments are necessary in building up and running
the human machine, and allow each product to
present itself, on its merits, for its proper place
in the building. It is from such approach that
yeast-wheat bread, measured by all other
20 BREAD FACTS
foods in its class, ranks first in the food value
of the food elements which it supplies. Nor
is there need for controversy over whole wheat
bread versus white bread. The whole wheat
has more of the mineral salts and more fiber.
The baker bakes both kinds of bread ; but as a
standard for the daily diet, the consumer pre-
fers and demands the white bread. The con-
sumer can, at will, select the whole wheat
bread.
There have been many reasons for the separ-
ation of the wheat berry in milling. The germ
of the wheat spoils ; the bran of the wheat does
not yield its nutriment to human digestion as
readily as do the inside portions of the berry.
Though backed by the earnest and disinter-
ested propaganda of food writers, though ad-
vertised at extensive expense by baking firms
the demand for whole wheat bread is limited.
All can agree that the germ is rich in protein
and fat, and the bran rich in some of the
mineral salts needed in human nutrition.
And here lies opportunity for scientific devel-
opments in the form of grain extracts which
will still further separate the valuable elements
BREAD FACTS ai
of the wheat offal from the fiber. The human
machine needs fiber, but the human taste seems
to prefer the more succulent fiber from green
vegetables and ripe fruits. Differing rations
are needed for differing needs. The large milk
and butter records among dairy cows have
been made on rations containing substantial
quantities of wheat bran; while the mule at
the plow is given a bran ration but once each
week ;and the thoroughbred that breaks records
under the saddle or at the sulky has the bran
mash at still less intervals. Let there be no
quarrel with the miller or the baker because
the consumer demandsbread frompeeledwheat.
Even whole grains do not contain all of the
elements recognized as necessary in the human
diet. They are deficient among other things
in lime. Dr. H. C. Sherman of Columbia
University says after summarizing a list of
valuable data about human nutrition:
Journal of Industrial and Engineering
Chemistry, Vol. lo. No. 5, Page 383.
"It cannot be denied that the rapid progress
of our knowledge of nutrition during the
past few years has tended to complicate rather
%% BREAD FACTS
than simplify our conception of food values
and nutritive requirements. But, while the
problem has become more complex, it also has
Decome clearer because we now for the first
time have good reason to believe that all of the
substances needed for normal nutrition have
been recognized and can be reckoned with even
though the chemical identification is in some
cases not yet complete."
* The efficiency with which economy in the
use of food and the conservation of the food
supply can be combined with entire adequacy
of nutrition is chiefly dependent upon the
adequate diet in quantitative terms."
"These results indicate very strongly that
the average American dietary contains a much
more liberal margin of protein than of either
phosphorus or calcium, and that while the
danger of a protein deficiency is rarely serious
the danger of a deficiency of phosphorus or
calcium is more important. Phosphorus defic-
iencies are plainly more frequent than are
deficiencies of protein, and calcium deficiencies
are more frequent still. The old assumption
that adequate protein may be taken as mean-
ing adequate supplies of all tissue-building
material is found to be wholly misleading.
Adequate energy intake is, in practice, more
BREAD FACTS 23
apt to insure adequacy of mineral elements,
but even if all of the 246 dietaries had been
brought to a basis of 3,000 calories per man
per day, 1 2 per cent of them would still have
furnished less than the average 'requirements'
of calcium."
Also to Drs. Mendel and Osbome of Yale,
to Dr. Lusk of Comell, to Dr. Forbes of Ohio
State, and to Dr. McCollum of Johns Hopkins,
who have done so much pioneer work on the
substances popularly called "vitamines" and
mineral salts and to others of their class we
turn today for accurate knowledge of proper
foods and proper feeding. Dr. McCollum has
worked with long patience to find out just
what cereals need to make them into com-
plete foods. In addition to the vitamine need
in nutrition, he points out the need for the
addition of mineral salts to cereal foods as
follows :
"The growth records make possible the
generalization that it is difficult, if not imposs-
ible, to obtain even a moderate amount of
growth over an extended period on a diet
restricted to the seeds of plants. It is evident
that satisfactory protein mixtures can be had
Z4 BREAD FACTS
from seed mixtures, and from the results it is
further evident that certain seeds as flaxseed
and millet seed contain the fat-soluble A in
fairly liberal amounts. Since the water-soluble
B is everywhere abundant in the seeds the
cause of failure to secure growth on seed mix-
tures is seen to lie in the amount and char-
acter of the inorganic moiety. An inspection
of the literature relating to the content of
inorganic elements in various classes of natural
foods as determined in recent times by satis-
factory methods reveals at a glance the supple-
mentary relationships among the different
classes of vegetable foods in inorganic elements.
Of the seven most important seeds from the
standpoint of human nutrition and animal
production, only cottonseed and flaxseed
contain a high total inorganic content and in
both cases the ash is very poor in three impor-
tant elements, sodium, calcium, and chlorine.
Since a pronounced deficiency of these elements is
characteristic of all other seeds as well, no com-
binations of seeds will supply these elements in
satisfactory amounts. Since spring and well
waters in certain districts contain both sodium
and calcium in greatly varying amounts it would
be expected that animals may secure the necessary
inorganic supplements through the drinking
water in some localities which would enable them
BREAD FACTS 15
to grow on a ration restricted to seeds, whereas in
other parts of the world they could not do so.*' —
Journal Biological Chemistry, Vol. 30,
page 13. (Italics added.)
We sell in wheat bread a food containing
refined carbohydrates and the best form of
cereal protein, with these food elements ren-
dered more soluble and more digestible
through the action of the yeast. In addition,
bread contains substantial amounts of needed
mineral salts. No claims at present are made
for vitamines ; but in studying the relation of
the food elements and the mineral salts con-
tained in bread to the daily amounts needed
in human nutrition it is plain that with milk,
grain extracts, and additions of mineral
salts, bread can be brought more and more
towards the standards of a complete food. In
selling bread, welcome the dairyman, the
vegetable and fruit grower, the meat packer,
the fisherman, and poultryman, and then say
to the consumer, with full warrant of nutri-
tional authority: Make half of your daily
diet bread, and this means at least a pound of
bread for each individual per day. And with
2(3 BREAD FACTS
this pound of bread as your food basis then add
such other foods as will give the full comple-
ment of vitamines, mineral salts, fats, other
proteins and carbohydrates, as your purse,
your taste, and a correct knowledge of food
values aids you to determine.
BREAD FACTS 27
HINTS FOR BETTER BREAD
There are many troubles encountered in
the baking of bread. In making suggestions
it is quite difficult, at times, to diagnose a
trouble, but hints will often suggest a remedy
to follow. The baking foreman when en-
countering trouble with his doughs and bread
should pause a moment, reflect and check
himself to see that the proper procedure was
followed in making up the dough. By analyz-
ing the situation, the trouble will often solve
itself.
The Rising of the Dough
You may notice that the dough is not rising
properly. A thermometer will tell you whether
you set the dough at the proper temperature.
Too much salt will retard the rising. If you
permit the yeast to come in contact with the
salt for only a fraction of a minute, before
mixing the dough, there will be a decided
falling off in the strength of the yeast. Dis-
solving the yeast in very cold water will check
the rising. Examine the yeast to see if it is
fresh. You may have gotten hold of some stale
i8 BREAD FACTS
yeast. Fresh compressed yeast should have a
good smell, not putrefactive, the color should
be creamy yellow, and not dark, and it should
break with a clear fracture and not show the
consistency of butter. You may have left your
yeast standing in a warm place. A warm tem-
perature, even for a short time, is detrimental
to yeast action. One should know the age
of the yeast. Yeast deteriorates from the
instant that it is put into compressed form.
This deterioration is all the more rapid the
warmer it is kept and the longer it is kept.
You may observe that your dough rises
rapidly at first, but it gradually loses its
activity, the dough rises slowly in the pan,
and the dough, instead of having a "kick"
in the oven, refuses to expand properly. This
may be caused by the nature of the yeast.
The yeast may have a strong initial fer-
mentation but it loses its strength before the
bread is baked. If you have not supplied
the yeast with sufficient fermentable material
and other yeast food, the action will become
weaker and weaker. Warm temperatures will
also cause a rapid start but the final action
BREAD FACTS iq
will be slow and sluggish. The best kind of
fermentation is one which starts slowly and
increases in vigor and reaches its best activity
when the dough is in the pan. This condition
is attained when there is proper nourishment
for the yeast in the dough.
Arkady Yeast Food supplies an ideal food
for the yeast in the dough. It causes the yeast
to grow and produce new yeast which, by its
very nature of growth, has a maximum raising
power. Starting with less yeast when using
Arkady, you naturally get a much slower
action in the first period, but after the first
punch, which is in about two hours, you begin
to get the effects of the newly produced yeast
and the dough begins to rise more vigorously
and continues so until your bread is baked.
Be sure your yeast is fresh and feed it properly
to insure good results.
Proper Fermentation Period
By fermentation period is understood the
time required to properly develop the dough.
This is the time interval from the time the
dough is mixed until it is ready for scaling.
30 BREAD FACTS
There is no laboratory test which will deter-
mine this accurately, although the tests are
admirable guides. A high speed mixer develops
the gluten, so a shorter fermenting period is
required, than when using a slow speed. The
longer a dough can be mixed with a high speed
mixer, the better the dough will be developed
and the shorter will be the fermentation
period. Some flours, however, will not stand
vigorous mixing so an understanding of your
flours is necessary. Flours with a strong,
tough gluten will stand more mixing than
flours of the soft winter wheat type.
A dough which has had too much mixing
will be sticky when it comes from the mixer.
It will remain sticky during the time it stands
in the trough; it will scale with difficulty; it
will proof poorly, tending to run flat in the
pan and it will not expand properly in the
oven. Northwestern flours, as a rule, require
more time in the dough than the Southwestern
flours. Among the Southwestern flours,
Kansas, Oklahoma and Texas flours require
a little more time than the Nebraska and
Missouri flours. The Kansas and Missouri
BREAD FACTS 31
flours require more time than the flours from
California, Oregon, Washington, Illinois, Indi-
ana, Kentucky, Ohio, Pennsylvania and the
Eastern States ; and the latter flours more time
than the very^soft wheats of Michigan and
Wisconsin. The Canadian flours probably have
the toughest and largest amount of gluten of
any flours. They can stand lots of mixing,
and must stand a long time in the dough to
develop the gluten most effectively. The
doughs from these flours may be soft when
they come from the mixer. They have the
power, however, to become tough again as
the fermentation progresses.
There are seasons, however, when the above
remarks will not hold for a given territory.
The larger portion of the wheat crop for
Montana, in 191 8, produced a flour much like
the Canadian flours. The gluten was tough
but elastic, and it was present in large
amounts. This flour required a long fer-
mentation to get the best results. However,
the 1919 wheat crop of the same State pro-
duced a flour which was deficient in gluten,
as well as one that was weak and did not stand
31 BREAD FACTS
much fermentation. The 191 8 Northwestern
and Southwestern wheats gave a flour with
a strong gluten and plenty of it ; so a 4 J^ to
5 hour fermentation gave excellent bread.
The 19 19 crop from the same localities gave
a flour which showed the best results when
taken in 33^ to 4 hours. The 1920 wheat crop
gives an excellent flour for gluten quality
and gluten strength. A longer period of fer-
mentation with a slacker dough will give
better results than you are getting with the
19 19 crop, using the shorter period of fer-
mentation.
There are a number of factors which will
influence the fermentation period. In the
first place, the amount of yeast that is used,
the quality of the yeast, and the age of the
yeast, will affect the time. The stronger the
fermentation, naturally, the shorter the time
required to develop the dough. Warm tem-
peratures shorten the period, through in-
creasing the activity of the yeast and through
stimulating those ferments which act best at
higher temperatures and which are always
present in a dough. These act upon the
BREAD FACTS 33
gluten, making it soft and elastic. Some of
this is to be desired, but when this action goes
too far the capacity of the dough for holding
gas and then giving the proper "kick" in
the oven is gone. The weaker the flour the
more noticeable will be this action.
Salt tends to lengthen the fermentation
period. It checks the ferments which act on
the gluten and checks the yeast action, and it
toughens the gluten. Whole milk, skimmed
milk, powdered milk, sweetened condensed
and unsweetened condensed milk lengthen
the time. They have a binding effect on the
gluten. Buttermilk, on the other hand,
shortens the time, due to the acidity and the
ferments which the buttermilk contains. Cane
sugar, glucose, corn sugar and maltose sugars
seem to have little direct effect upon the
development of the dough. They ferment
about equally well in the dough and other
than supplying fermentable material for the
yeast they do not effect the fermentation
period. Malt extracts, however, shorten the
period of fermentation. The higher the
Lintner value the greater will be the action
34 BREAD FACTS
on the dough. Shortenings also shorten the
fermentation period a little. The better they
are incorporated in the dough, the greater
will be their action on the dough.
Naturally, a strong yeast or one that has
been supplied with the proper food for the
yeast will develop the dough quicker, and
make the fermentation period shorter than
a dough made from a weak yeast, or one not
supplied with yeast food.
Arkady Yeast Food decreases the time of
fermentation by 30% when the average
quantity of yeast is used, but by cutting the
quantity of yeast from 40% to 50% the fer-
mentation period of the dough will remain
the same as when no yeast food is used.
Is a short fermentation period desirable?
It is, if the dough can be developed most
effectively in a short time. Flours which are
weak should be developed rapidly, and for
these the shorter periods are desirable and
necessary. A flour with a strong tough gluten
will give best results with a longer period of
fermentation. For flours with a large amount
of tough gluten, a moderate amount of yeast
BREAD FACTS 35
with a long time will give a better result than
a large amount of yeast and a short time, and
for weaker flours with a small amount of
gluten and one that is soft the reverse is true.
More yeast and less time are preferable.
It is a difficult matter to say and still more
difficult to determine just exactly what is the
correct fermentation period of a dough.
After you have the analysis of the flour to
show you the quantity of gluten and the qual-
ity of the gluten you get an idea of how much
fermentation the dough will stand. You will
get an idea of how much yeast and how much
salt to use, and the time required to develop
the gluten properly. The best procedure to
follow is to make a dough of proper consistency
with the quantity of yeast and salt that you
think it should have. Set the dough at 80° F.
and scale one fourth of the dough after it has
stood 33^ hours and work up in regular way.
Take another 3^ of the dough after it has
stood 3^ hour longer making four hours from
time dough was mixed, and proceed as with
first portion ; take the third quarter after it has
had 43^ hours ; and the last portion after it has
36 BREAD FACTS
had 5 hours. If this is not convenient for
your shop then make separate doughs with
same formula and temperature but give the
dough different times, one dough 3)^, one 4,
one 4}4, and one 5 hours. Make accurate
observation and keep notes on what you ob-
serve in regard to the dough; its scaling; its
moulding; the proving and the quality of
bread produced. After the bread is cold inspect
and determine which of these periods of fer-
mentation gave the best bread. You may find
that all of the bread baked is below your
standard of quality. The loaves may all have
a tendency to be flat, in particular those that
had the most fermentation. You should then
try using more yeast, but cut the time to three
hours — three and a half and four hours and
see which gives best results. Or, you may find
that the dough with five hours gave the best
results in that run, but bread still inclined to
be too small. It may be you are using too
much salt for this flour, and it is preventing
the dough from expanding in the oven. Try
using less salt and giving the dough five hours
or use a little more yeast and still give the
dough five hours fermentation.
BREAD FACTS 37
If a piece of dough is taken from a batch
each half hour, for six hours, from the time of
mixing, scaled, rounded up, moulded into a
loaf and baked in usual way , it will be found
that one of these loaves will be better for
appearance, size, texture and color of crumb,
and flavor over all the others. The one which
is best in these points has had very nearly the
proper fermentation period. All the other
loaves will have had either too much or too
little fermentation. It is true some will be
nearly as good as the best one, but even an
inexpert person can tell the difference. The
dough is developed gradually from the time it
is mixed until it reaches a maximum develop-
ment and after that stage is passed the dough
loses in quality ; it becomes undeveloped again,
so to speak.
The time required for the maximum devel-
opment of the dough cannot be ascertained
accurately but we can come very near to it by
making a series of bakes as described above.
Fortunately there is a fairly wide range of
time through which we can ferment a dough
and still produce a salable loaf of bread. There
38 BREAD FACTS
is one correct period of fermentation for every
dough, when the highest quality loaf of bread
is produced, the loaf that creates and holds a
customer.
Is it then possible for a baker to make
several kinds of bread, all of the highest quality
from one dough ; some of it getting three hours
of fermentation and the other possibly six
hours ? The answer is, he cannot. One piece of
his dough will probably make a good loaf,
whereas the remainder of his goods will be
either made from a dough which is too young
or one that comes from a dough with too
much age.
Many a baker will probably say to this,
"Well, my trade likes my bread and I follow
this practice." His business is small, because
he follows this practice, and if it is not his
competition is small. The best course is to set
separate doughs, for each type of bread, in-
stead of setting one dough for a variety of pro-
ducts. It may involve a little more time, but
it is the only way to produce the highest qual-
ity products. At times, the baker sets one
dough large enough to fill two ovens, but he
B READ FACTS 39
only has one oven in his shop. He takes one
half of the dough forty-five minutes before the
other half. The result is he has bread of two
different qualities. Far better results would
be obtained by setting two doughs, each just
large enough to fill the oven, and no more.
The highest quality flour, yeast, shortening,
sugar, malt, milk, salt, etc., will not insure
the baker good bread if his dough is not fer-
mented properly. For that reason such
importance is placed upon the necessity of
determining the proper fermentation period of
the dough. In fact, it is the very key to the
production of a quality loaf.
Sticky Doughs
It is the experience of every baker to en-
counter sticky doughs. A warm temperature
may be the cause. Gluten acts very much like
glue ; the warmer it gets, the stickier it gets. A
sticky dough will result if the yeast weakens
during the rising of the dough. Malt extracts
with high diastatic and proteolytic enzymes if
used in too large amounts will make the dough
soft. A knowledge of your malt extract and
40 BREAD FACTS
the judicious use of it with different flours
will save you many troubles. A young dough
will feel sticky and will have a tendency to
run when in the proof box. Some flours,
especially when made from damaged wheat,
due to rains, show a remarkable stickiness
when made into dough and the longer the
dough stands the more this develops. One
way to handle a flour of this nature is to use
lots of salt and yeast, and use a short fermen-
tation period. The best solution is to get rid
of the flour, if possible to do so. Mixing the
dough so long that the gluten loses its elasticity
causes a condition of stickiness. This applies
to the high speed mixers. There is no danger
of making a dough sticky with a slow speed
mixer.
Young and Old Doughs
A young dough, as the name implies, refers
to a dough which is not developed properly.
The loaf of bread baked from such a dough will
have a dark reddish brown crust, and quite
frequently there will be blisters, just beneath
the crust. The loaf will be small and flat.
BREAD FACTS 41
showing little oven spring and if there is any
spring the loaf will have a poor appearance.
A young dough will take on color quite readily
in the oven. In the proof box the dough will
flatten out in the pan, and will, in most cases,
take considerable time to proof. The dough will
also be quite sticky in the pan during proofing,
and will also look as though it were sweating.
Young doughs have a strong tendency to
stick to the divider and moulding machine.
I f the dough is quite young the texture of the
crumb will be coarse and the color of crumb will
be quite yellow, but the flavor will be good.
Old doughs show some characteristics of
young doughs, in that the dough sticks quite
badly when scaled and when it passes through
the moulding machine. The odor of an old
dough is strong, suggesting a sour yeasty
smell. An old dough does not show the same
tendency to run in the proof box that a young
dough does, and when it goes to the oven
the dough may first show a little expansion,
standing up round, but when the loaf is
baked it will be smaller than when the dough
went into the oven. The gluten in an old
42 BREAD FACTS
dough tends to pull together in the oven. This
is often referred to as having a binding effect.
The dough will color slowly in the oven and the
crust will be pale. The bread will have a
coarse texture and the color of crumb will be
dark, but it will not be yellow like that of a
young dough; it will have a dirty gray color.
An old dough is easily recognized by the strong
sour smell of the baked bread. The loaf also
crumbles when cut and tastes very poorly.
Many bakers ferment their doughs too much.
It is much more desirable to take the doughs
just on the young side than a little old. You
gain in flavor, in keeping qualities and in the
bloom of the crust. Bread from an old dough
dries out quickly and gets stale very readily.
Remedies for old doughs : Set dough cooler, or
shorten fermentation period, use more salt or
use less yeast.
Proving the Dough
Proof, as we commonly understand the
term, is applied to the rising of the dough in
the pan, if it is pan bread, or if hearth bread
the rising period from the moulding of the loaf
BREAD FACTS 43
until it goes to the oven. Broadly speaking,
proving also includes the rising period from the
time the dough is scaled until it is moulded
into the loaf.
This first period of proving though impor-
tant is not so vital as the second stage, when
the loaf is moulded. This first period should
require about 10 to 15 minutes under ordinary
conditions. However, if the dough is warm
and the room is hot, as is often the case, this
period should be less. With cold dough the
time may be longer. The dough, after being
scaled and rounded up, should receive a cer-
tain amount of recovery, before moulding.
Poor moulding due to improper proof may
result from an under, as well as an over proved
dough. Under proving will tend to make the
loaf heavy and may even cause blisters in the
bread. Over proving should be avoided. It
develops a skin on the outside which will cause
streaks in the bread and it will mold with
difficulty ; the dough will tend to tear and stick
to the machine and will not mold smoothly.
The second stage of proving is an important
step in the production of a good loaf. A good
44 BREAD FACTS
flour, or a good yeast, is often condemned
because of failure in proving the dough prop-
erly. The proof room should be kept at 95
to ioo°F. and the atmosphere almost saturated
with moisture for pan breads. Under these
conditions the loaf should proof in 45 to 60
minutes. A dough taking longer than one
hour to proof may be slow, due to insufficient
yeast; it may have too much salt; the yeast
may be weak, due to exhaustion, or the dough
may be cold, due to setting the dough cold or
getting the dough chilled after scaling. A long
time in the proof box should be avoided as the
gluten loses its ability to hold gas over a long
period, especially, as it is matured. The dough
will show a tendency to flatten in the pan and
the resulting bread will lack the oven "kick."
The bread will have a poor texture and the
color of crumb and the general appearance of
the loaf will not be good. See that you are
getting a quick proof. However, avoid taking
your doughs under proof as this will make your
doughs stand up round and will pull away
from the pans when in the oven. The bread
will be heavy ; it will not bake well in the oven ;
BREAD FACTS 45
it will lack in bloom and the odor and flavor
will be strong. Caution — do not over proof
the dough. A dough which has had too much
proof will not show much oven "kick;" the
texture of the bread may be even, but it will be
coarse, the color of the crumb will be off, and
the crumb will show a great tendency to
crumble when cut. Do not try to get volume
in your loaf by proving. A properly proved
loaf if it is fermented properly will show a
lively spring in the oven and will give you the
proper size. The bread should show a small
break with shredded appearance on the side of
the loaf. Too much heat is injurious in prov-
ing; the dough will flatten and the resulting
loaf of bread will, naturally, be flat, and may
have numerous blisters beneath the crust ; the
texture will be coarse and color of crumb
dark.
A proof box that supplies warmth and mois-
ture is essential for every shop; regardless of
whether you bake one dozen loaves or one
thousand.
The dough should be kept warm and moist
during proving.
46 BREAD FACTS
Controlling the Temperature of the Dough Room
A loaf of bread of uniform goodness can only
be obtained where shop conditions are con-
trolled.
The two vital ingredients, flour and yeast,
are very susceptible to changes of tempera-
ture, particularly when in the dough. Cold
temperatures check the activity of the yeast.
At 6o°F. fermentation practically ceases; at
70° there is slow action of the yeast but from
this point the yeast activity increases until a
temperature of 95 to ioo°F. is reached, when
the rate of gas production decreases.
Experiments have shown that a dough fer-
mented at 77° F. produces 25% more gas than
one set at 68° F. At 86° 34% more gas is pro-
duced than at 77^ F. At 95° F. 1 5% more gas
is produced than at 86° F. A strong yeast
action is desirable in the dough but the strong
action obtained through warm doughs, though
desirable, must be avoided. A warm dough is
undesirable for many reasons. As a rule, the
colder dough increases absorption. Low
temperatures, however, check the yeast.
Doughs set lower than 78° F. work slowly.
BREAD FACTS a7
Unless you are using the sponge process or a
long time dough avoid setting doughs colder
than 78° F., even though your absorption is
increased, at the lower temperatures.
Warm temperatures make your doughs
runny and sticky, they become difficult to
handle in the machines and the longer they
ferment the worse they get. Warm doughs
also stimulate and multiply undesirable bac-
teria. These will cause your dough to have
objectionable flavors, odors and a poor bloom.
Rope will develop best under these conditions.
The best and most practical results will be
obtained when doughs are set at 79° to 81° F.
The dough should increase in temperature so
it will be about 83° to 84° F. when ready for
scaling. A most excellent loaf of bread can be
obtained at lower temperatures but this
necessitates more yeast, more time and a
greater expense in making. So temperatures
lower than 78° F. are not frequently employed,
except when sponge doughs are made. Sponge
doughs are frequently set as low as 75° F.
during the warm weather. The temperature of
the dough room should be 80° F.
48 BREAD FACTS
Baking the Loaf
No specified time or temperature can be
given at which a loaf of bread should be baked.
The weight of the loaf, the character of the
bread, the age of the dough, the ingredients
used and the proof of the loaf all must be taken
into consideration when attempting to give
the proper temperature for baking. A good
heat for pan bread is 450° to 500° F. At this
temperature the loaf should bake in 35 to 45
minutes, depending upon the weight of dough
in the pan. It is quite necessary that your
thermometer register the temperatures ac-
curately. Many thermometers are not ac-
curate and the position of the thermometer in
the oven may give you the wrong temperature.
A dough which proves slowly and one which
is young should be baked in a cooler oven.
This will give the loaf an opportunity to ex-
pand and it will prevent it from coloring too
rapidly. Old doughs need higher temperatures
to give color to the crust. A cold oven makes
a larger loaf than a hot oven but the keeping
quality and flavor of the loaf is not so good.
The degree of fermentation of the loaf deter-
BREAD FACTS 4q
mines, in a measure, the time required to bake
a loaf. If you have a quick fermentation it
will bake more quickly than a slowly fermented
dough.
A properly baked loaf will have a crumb that
is springy and will come back quite readily
when pressed with the finger. An underbaked
loaf will feel doughy and will show an impres-
sion when pressed. A good test also is to press
the loaf quite flat when it is baked and note
whether it recovers again. If the loaf remains
flat it is not baked enough. Good bread can be
made either with or without steam in the oven.
The character of the crust and bloom will be
different. A loaf baked without steam will not
have the golden brown color and glossy appear-
ance that a steamed loaf has. The crust of the
loaf, however, will be short and quite tender.
Steaming the dough makes a tougher crust
and puts a gloss on the loaf. Care must be
exercised when using steam. It should be
used only during the early part of the baking.
Too much steam will check the expansion of
the dough and it will interfere with the open-
ing up of a cut loaf. Good wet steam should be
50 BREAD FACTS
used and of just sufficient pressure to supply
the necessary moisture.
There are two types of heat "solid" and
"flash" heat. A properly constructed oven
with thick walls and made of the proper
materials will produce a continuous heat and
will not fall off much during the baking. This
is known as "solid" heat. The heat is radi-
ated slowly and continuously from the walls
to the loaf. This insures a thorough baking of
the loaf and also gives it the proper bloom.
A "flash" heat is a heat which is only tem-
porary, but frequently intense for a moment
and then falls off rapidly. Some ovens will
only produce a "flash" heat. Their walls are
thin and so must be heated very high before
putting in the bread. The result is that the
oven first burns the bread and toward the end
is so cool that it does not completely bake the
batch. Obviously an oven with a ''solid" heat
is the preferable one to use.
Handling the Baked Loaf
The loaf when it is baked should be placed
on clean sanitary racks or conveyors in a clean,
BREAD FACTS 51
cool, sanitary place, and cooled as rapidly as
possible. The quicker the loaf can be cooled
the longer the loaf will keep. Quick cooling
prevents the loaf from losing moisture and it
protects it from undue exposure to germs that
are everywhere in the air. It has been shown
that in a crowded room 70,000 germs fall upon
an area of one square foot every hour. The
advisability for rapid cooling and then wrap-
ping is apparent. A loaf of bread cooled in an
atmosphere of cold dry air can be wrapped in
10 to 15 minutes after baking. Unless the bread
is cooled in some manner it is not advisable to
wrap it in less than one hour. Bread wrapped
warm will be in a most favorable condition for
developing rope during the warm weather.
If the bread is to be cooled quickly and
wrapped it must have a good strong bake
otherwise the loaf will be heavy and soggy.
For an underbaked loaf more time is neces-
sary so the loaf will dry out before wrapping.
Volume of the Loaf
We have shown the importance of a properly
fermented dough in making quality bread.
52 BREAD FACTS
The very purpose of fermentation is to make
the loaf light, give volume to the bread. Every
baker tries to make a well risen loaf. His aim
is to get expansion. The size of a quality
loaf will necessarily vary because of the vari-
ance in the quality of flours and the variance
which will be caused by the addition of differ-
ent ingredients. It is an error to say that
unless a loaf has a certain volume it will not
possess quality. Flours vary in composition,
some have a large amount of excellent gluten,
some have a large amount of poor gluten,
others have a small amount of excellent gluten,
still others have a small amount of poor gluten.
Blending these flours will change the amounts
and expanding power of the gluten. All
gluten, however, has a certain natural expan-
sion when fermented; but this expansion
varies in the different flours, and in the
blends of flours. The flours with a large
amount of excellent quality gluten will
possess a high degree of expansion in the
oven. These flours will, from the nature of
the gluten, make a loaf with a large volume.
It would be folly to try to check the ex-
BREAD FACTS 53
pansion and make the loaf small with flour
of this nature. Either you would have an
undeveloped dough or one that would be
too old. Any process which could be used
to hold the expansion in check would interfere
with the natural function of the gluten and so
would be detrimental to loaf quality. A flour
of this nature must produce a large volumed
loaf in order to give excellence of texture, of
color, of flavor, of moisture retaining properties
and in general appearance.
It would likewise be folly to try to make a
large loaf with a flour low in gluten but with
an excellent gluten. Any process used to in-
crease the volume beyond a certain point will
be injurious to loaf quality. A flour of this
nature will produce quality bread, but the
volume of the loaf will be small.
The point to be impressed here is that each
type of flour will produce a certain volumed
loaf possessing the marks of a quality loaf and
it is up to the baker to determine just what he
can get out of his flour. If his loaf is too large
he should blend his flours so as to give him a
smaller loaf. If too small, then he should get
}
U BREAD FACTS
a flour with a gluten that will expand and give
him the volume.
In order to produce the particular volume
that is desired the baker must have a knowl-
edge of the materials and conditions which
effect the size of the loaf. A small volume does
not necessarily imply that there is something
wrong with the method of working. If the
bloom of the crust is good, if the texture is
good, the color good and the flavor good, you
can feel assured that you are getting the best
out of your flour and other ingredients. You
may find your loaf heavy and soggy ; however,
if the color of crust is "foxy," your dough is
young ; if the crust is pale and odor of bread
strong your dough is too old. Be sure your
proof is correct, and be sure the dough is not
injured during scaling and moulding. Under
proving the loaf will give a heavy loaf, appear-
ing as though it were gluten bound. Excessive
proof will make a flat loaf; too much heat
in the proof box, during proving, will make the
loaf small.
On the other hand, your volume may be
satisfactory but the texture coarse, and the
BREAD FACTS $$
color inclined to be dark. This indicates that
you are creating a volume by proving and the
loaf may be larger than the quality of the flour
justifies in producing; or, you may find that
proper proving will give you a better expan-
sion with the proper texture, color, flavor and
bloom.
Character of the Crust and Crumb
The crust of the loaf should be of a golden
brown color. It should be thin and tender. A
tough crust is produced from strong, tough,
glutenous flours when not given enough fer-
mentation. Too much salt makes the crust
tough as the salt has a binding effect on
the gluten. An under-proved loaf will cause
toughness. An excessive quantity of milk, too
much steam in the oven, too much handling of
the dough, after it is developed, and low grade
flours produce bread with a tough crust. The
crust of your bread may lack coherency ; this
indicates too much age, or too much proof.
Weak flours have a tendency to produce such
crusts due to being easily over-fermented. An
old dough will give you a loaf with a pale crust,
56 BREAD FACTS
a cold oven may also be the fault. If you
haven't sufficient sugar in the dough the cmst
will be pale. Sometimes the top crust is grey
but the bottom of the loaf has a good bloom.
This is caused by the dough getting too dry
during proof, or the oven being too dry. You
may find the bread too pale on the bottom, and
top bloom satisfactory ; more bottom and less
top heat will give better results. If the loaf
crumbles when cut the indications are that
your dough is too old, or, you have given the
dough too much proof. Weak flours will pro-
duce crumbly breads. Substitutes for flour
also make the bread short and crumbly. A
young dough will give the bread a yellow cast,
whereas an old dough will give a dark grey
color. Streaks in bread are caused by too
much dusting flour at the moulding stage, or
by the drying up of the dough in the proving
stage before moulding.
A satisfactory development of the dough
with proper richness of ingredients will give
the perfect bloom to the crust and an ideal
texture of the crumb.
BREAD FACTS 57
Yeast
Within the yeast cells that come to you in
compressed form, there lies a tremendous
latent power ready to be released instantly the
yeast is placed in proper surroundings. So
great is this power that one pound of the yeast
can raise one hundred and fifty times its
weight of dough, from a small flat mass into a
balloon-like mass five times its original size in
a period of three hours.
This yeast has life. It is the very soul of the
dough. Since it has life it is very delicate and
needs attention and proper care to maintain
its vigorous functions, producing gas and
creating the juices which soften the gluten so as
to give it perfect elasticity and make it easy
for the dough to rise. Not only does it do that
but it also grows new yeast, on the scanty food
available for it in the dough. Yeast is a plant
and so is very susceptible to changes of tem-
perature. It grows rapidly. A yeast cell will
reach full maturity in a few hours. It also dies
rapidly. Yeast, as soon as it reaches maturity
begins to weaken. This weakening is delayed
by getting it into compressed form and keeping
SB BREAD FACTS
it cold, 40 to 45° F. The higher the tempera-
ture at which compressed yeast is kept and the
longer it is kept the more rapidly it weakens.
The following tests made in the Ward
Laboratory show how yeast loses strength
when kept under different conditions. Gas
collection test was made on a dough with the
following formula:
grams
Flour
100
Water
61
Sugar
5
Yeast
I
Salt
il
**
**
it
'2
The doughs when set were 86° F. and the fer-
mentation carried out in a chamber which was
maintained at 85 to 87° F. during the entire
test. On next page are given the quantities of
gas produced from the above doughs, using
yeast one day from the date of its arrival. One
portion was kept in the refrigerator at 45° F.
Another portion in the dough room, which was
80° F., and a third portion kept in the baking
room where the temperature was around
95° F.
BREAD FACTS jg
Cubic centimeters of gas produced in six
hours:
Where stored c.c. gas produced in 6 hours
Refrigerator 45° F. i iboc.c.
Dough room 80° F. 900
Baking room 95° F. 310
The above results show the vital necessity of
proper refrigeration for the yeast. I f the yeast
comes to you in a warm condition, or, has been
delayed in transit you can rest assured your
yeast will work slowly. Examine your yeast
on arrival and see that it is fresh. Yeast which
has been kept warm, for even a short time,
will show darkness on the surface and may
even become soft and putty like. The yeast
should break with a clear break and have a
fresh yeasty smell. Stale yeast shows a putre-
factive odor. When the yeast arrives, immed-
iately place it in a refrigerator which should
never be much higher than 45° F. Do not
permit your yeast to stand around the dough
room. Take just enough from the refrigerator
to make the doughs you are setting at the time.
The following test shows how yeast deter-
iorates upon storage even when kept at 45° F.
6o BREAD FACTS
Gas produced in six hours using previous
formula :
Time stored after arrival
c.c. gas produced
I day
1245 c.c.
2 days
1150
3 days
1 120
8 days
850
Yeast stored at 80° F. deteriorates rapidly on
storage as the tests below will show.
Time stored c.c. gas produced
1 day 970 c.c.
2 days 750
3 days 555
4 days 365
Note the rapid falling off in the gas-producing
power of the yeast when it is stored at high
temperatures. Since the fermentation period
of the dough depends upon the activity of the
yeast it is quite obvious that, in order to have
the fermentation period under control, the
baker must have a yeast that works uniformly.
He must get it fresh and he must keep it from
losing strength.
Stamp the date on the package of the yeast
when it reaches you. Use it as quickly as
BREAD FACTS 61
possible. Do not allow it to stay in storage
longer than necessary.
These results on yeast tests show you the
necessity for using yeast foods to bolster up
your yeast in the dough whether you are a
believer in them or not. Get this fact. Yeast
which grows in the dough has the greatest
maximum of strength, greater than you can
possibly get from yeast in compressed form.
Grow yeast in your dough by using Arkady
Yeast Food, now recognized everywhere, as
the best source of food for yeast.
Salt
Salt, in addition to producing flavor, has a
regulating influence upon the ferments in the
flour and yeast. A good average quantity to
use is three pounds per barrel of flour. Salt
also has a strong binding action on the gluten.
The more salt you use the more the fermenta-
tion required to develop the gluten perfectly.
Some flours will carry more salt in the dough
than others. Salt has a strong inhibiting
action on the yeast. As you increase the salt
you must likewise increase the quantity
62 BREAD FACTS
of yeast, in order to get the same rate of
rising.
An average of many gas collection tests in
the Ward Laboratory shows the following per
cents of salt and yeast calculated on the flour,
to give equal quantities of gas in the dough;
that is to say, i% salt and .7% yeast will
produce as much gas in six hours as 2% salt
and 1.25% yeast will produce in the same
time.
Salt
Yeast
1%
0.70%
1.25
.83
1.50
1. 00
1.75
1. 10
2.00
1.25
2.25
1.50
2.50
1.65
^.75
1.80
In selecting the quantity of salt you wish to
use be sure and 1
ase the
proper quantity of
yeast to raise your
dough.
Milk
Milk in any form is a very desirable ingred-
ient to use in bread if for no other reason than
BREAD FACTS 63
that of the food value which it possesses. It is
the most nutritious and has the best propor-
tions of food elements of any known food
product. Bread made with milk will have a
better flavor, a better bloom and will retain its
freshness longer than a loaf made without milk.
Milk has a toughening action on the gluten
so the more that is used the more fermentation
the dough needs. The dough should also be
set fairly slack so as to overcome the binding
effect of the milk. Six pounds per barrel of
condensed milk or two pounds of powdered
milk are sufficient to make a good loaf of
bread. Buttermilks work just the opposite to
fresh milks. They mature the dough, due to
the acidity and the ferments which they con-
tain and so do not show a binding effect on the
dough but tend to slacken it.
Shortening
The term "shortening" when used in bread
making refers to fats and oils in various forms.
These may be liquid, semi-solid or dry. The
main purpose in adding these to the bread is to
improve the texture and keeping qualities of
64 BREAD FACTS
the loaf. The crumb of the loaf also has better
eating qualities because it is not so tough.
Shortenings do not directly effect the fermen-
tation. They do, however, aid in developing
the gluten by giving it more elasticity, thus
aiding its expanding power in the oven. Their
action on the gluten also effects the texture of
the loaf. The loaf texture is finer and closer
and more silky than when no shortening is used.
The effectiveness of a shortening depends
upon how well it is incorporated into the dough
batch. Dry shortenings can be easily and
thoroughly distributed in the dough and for
this reason have greater shortening power in
bread doughs than the liquid kind. Florolene
in this respect leads all other shortenings.
Another big advantage in using it, is its clean-
liness.
Sugars
The bloom of the loaf, its flavor, the raising
of the dough and the stiffness of the dough
depend upon the nature and the amount of
sugar used in the dough. Cane sugar, corn
sugars, and maltose when used in equal dry
BREAD FACTS 65
weight raise the dough equally well, but they
have different effects on the flavor and bloom
of the loaf, as well as the color of crumb. Cane
sugar excels in flavor, color and bloom, but
present prices do not justify its use as the
difference in quality over the bread produced
by the other sugars is not sufficiently pro-
nounced. Lactose or milk sugar is of no value
in raising the dough, but it does help the
bloom. The sugars slacken the dough. One
pound of sugar displaces about 3^ pound
of water. The more sugar that is used —
the less water you must use in making
the dough. When more than 10 pounds of
sugar per barrel of flour are used the raising
of the dough is checked. Yeast works best
when the sugar is kept below this amount.
What has been said above also applies to
such products as glucose, maltose, syrup, etCw
Allowance must be made for the water they
contain.
Malt extracts act somewhat differently than
sugars. The most of them have 7$ per cent
solids but their diastatic and proteolytic pro-
perties vary, depending"]upon materials and
66 BREAD FACTS
methods used in manufacture. A gcx)d malt
extract for bakers to use is one that shows
about 60° Lintner. Some bakers prefer to use
malt extracts that have no Lintner value. The
higher the Lintner value of a malt extract the
greater is its action on the gluten, so it is
necessary to bear in mind the type of flour
that you have when you specify the kind of
malt extract that you want.
A safe quantity of malt extract to use in the
average formula for straight doughs is from 2
to 3 pounds per barrel of flour. More or less
can be used depending on the Lintner value,
and the flour you are using. Malt extracts
must be used carefully with weak flours.
The malt extracts and syrups are valuable
aids in baking. A given weight of 60° Lintner
extract will displace from 3 to 4 times its
weight of sugar in the dough. The doughs,
however, do not take nor carry the water, that
doughs made from sugar do. Likewise the
warmer your doughs are the stronger is the
action of the malt extract on the gluten and
starches of the flour. The yeast action is
stimulated and the fermentation period
BREAD FACTS 67
shortened. However, with proper care, a loaf
can be produced having an excellent bloom
and flavor.
In general, sugars are necessary for the pro-
duction of a good bloom on the loaf. The
amount you should use depends upon the time
you ferment the doughs, the temperature of
the dough and the temperature of your oven.
Sugars retain freshness in the loaf because the
loaf readily takes on the desired bloom in the
oven. A dough that has not sufficient sugar
must be baked in a hot oven to give color to the
crust or else baked a long time in a moderate
oven both of which will drive too much mois-
ture from the loaf.
68 BREAD FACTS
WHEAT
June, July and August are the heavy har-
vest months for wheat. Seventy-five per cent
of the world crop is harvested in these months.
But somewhere, in every month, wheat is
being planted — is being harvested. Rice and
rye, Indian com and barley furnish the cereal
supply for large numbers of world population.
In the warmer climates the Orientals grow and
eat rice. In the colder north countries — ^Nor-
way and Sweden, Finland and the northern
sections of Germany, Russia and Poland —
rye, oats and barley are the main dependence
for cereal food. But even in these colder
countries, as wheat, through the centuries,
has been acclimated to the colder tempera-
tures from the warmer regions of the Nile, it
has been given first choice over all other
cereals for bread making. Indian corn was the
cereal food found on the American continent.
The Aztecs cultivated corn on the high table
lands of old Mexico. The American pioneers
developed corn and made it their first cereal
food. But they brought wheat; until today
Great Britain, Belgium, Germany, the
BREAD FACTS 6q
Netherlands, France and Italy look with inter-
est, at each harvest season, towards the hoped
for three hundred million bushels of wheat
surplus from the United States and Canada.
And if Russia and the Balkans add another
two hundred million bushels, if South America,
India and Egypt give their normal wheat sur-
plus then the congested centres of Europe may
have their usual per capita of wheaten,
leavened, more nourishing, more digestible
bread.
The march of civilization, the development
of the stronger types of thinking people have
been associated with meat and dairy foods;
but their development can also be asso-
ciated with the growth or decline of wheat
production. The Chinese have abundance of
rice and poultry; but wheat was the cereal in
their older and more powerful days. The new
era of Japan is associated with the closer atten-
tion to wheat and the high average of twenty
one bushels per acre produced by the Japanese
farmer.
Even the strong dairy sections cluster
around the lands of wheat surplus, and the
70
BREAD FACTS
wheat by-products are the first choice of all
foods for the dairy cow.
The calendar of the world's wheat harvest
shows how universal has this cereal become
the first choice for human food. Wheat is har-
vested by months, and in the countries of the
world, as follows:
January
Australia
Chile
New Zealand
February and March
Egypt (upper)
India
April
Asia Minor
Cuba
Cyprus
Egypt (lower)
India
Mexico
Persia
Syria
May
Algeria
Asia (central)
China
lapan
Morocco
United States
Texas
June
July (Cont.)
France (south.)
England (south.)
Greece
Germany
Italy
Roumania
Portugal
Russia (south.)
Spain
Switzerland
Turkey (Europ.)
United States:
United States:
Colorado
Alabama
Illinois
Arkansas
Indiana
California
Iowa
Georgia
Michigan
Illinois
Minnesota (so)
Kansas
Nebraska
Kentucky
New York
Mississippi
Ohio
Missouri
Pennsylvania
No. Carolina
Wisconsin
Oklahoma
Oregon
August
lenncssee
Belgium
Utah
Canada :
Virginia
Alberta
Washington
Brit. Columbia
Manitoba
July
Ontario
Aust ria-Hunga ry
Saskatchewan
Bulgaria
Denmark
Canada:
Great Britain
Quebec
Russia (central)
BREAD FACTS
71
August (Cont.)
Poland
The Netherlands
United States:
Minnesota
(c*l and north.)
Montana
New England
North Dakoca
South Dakota
SepL and October
November
Norway
Africa (southern)
Argentine
Russia (north.)
Peru
Siberia
December
Scotland
Burma
Sweden
New South Wales
The world per capita consumption of wheat
is given by the United States Department of
Agriculture, based on ten years average of
production, import and export figures and
seeding requirements as follows :
Bus
Canada 9.5
Belgium 8.3
France 7.9
Spain 6.1
United Kingdom 6.0
Switzerland 6.0
Australia ^.^
Italy 5.4
United States 5.3
Uruguay 5.3
Argentina 5.2
Bulgaria $.0
Austria Hungary 4.3
Bus
Netherlands 4.2
Roumania 4.0
Denmark 3.5
Chile 3.4
Germany 3.2
Russia 2.7
Serbia 2.5
Sweden 2.5
Egypt 2.5
Portugal 1.8
British India 8
Mexico 8
Japan 5
The per capita consumption of wheat in the
United States, by states, and the available
supplies can well be studied by bakers. A
baker in Alabama, Mississippi or Arkansas,
with a wheat per capita consumption of four
7% BREAD FACTS
bushels has not the opportunity of the baker
who serves Ohio, with a per capita consump-
tion of 6 3-10 bushels; or Minnesota where it
is 7 2-10 bushels; or Pennsylvania where it is
5 8-10 bushels.
Wheat is the main raw material upon which
the baking industry depends and to know
bread is to know wheat. Agricultural science
has spent a long effort to increase production,
improve varieties and increase the bread-
making value of wheat. This effort can be
helped and directed towards more definite
bread-making results, through closer interest
from the baking industry in the work of the
agricultural scientist.
A century ago there were but few varieties,
today agricultural science has developed a
variety for all soils and all climates. Men like
Luther Burbank foresaw that if one grain
more could be added to each wheat head the
result would add fifteen millions of bushels to
the annual American wheat harvest. One
reason for the superior food value of wheat is
the amount and character of its protein con-
tent. Wheats vary in this ingredient from a
BREAD FACTS 73
minimum of eight to a maximum of twenty
per cent. Colorado wheats are highest in pro-
tein; California and Carolina wheats yield
more starch and less protein.
Why? The agricultural scientist is trying
to find out, is making progress, and the baker
is interested as this question affects the gluten
strength of his flour and the food value of his
bread.
In i860 the average wheat yield per acre in
the United States was around ten bushels;
today it has passed sixteen bushels per acre;
while in Great Britain and Germany the aver-
age yield per acre is around thirty bushels ; in
France the yield is past twenty bushels. Irri-
gation has added more than fifteen million
bushels to the annual wheat harvest in the
United States. The mineral needs of the
wheat plant have been studied; just, as later,
the mineral needs of the yeast plant were
studied and determined. The wheat plant has
been found to need phosphates, potash and
nitrogen in the form of ammonium salts, or
nitrogen gathered from the air by the pea and
bean plants.
74 BREAD FACTS.
The making of flour begins in the wheat
fields; if underripe the flour will make a sour
and a dark bread; if well ripe it may lose in
weight but the quality of the gluten is en-
hanced. The wheat undergoes changes in the
shocks, in the stack, in the elevator, and the
flour, after milling, is still subject to changes,
the reasons for which are still not clearly
worked out. It is in the ripening or aging —
proper aging — of the wheat and flour that
flavor, the delicious wheat flavor, is developed.
In the process, too, the gluten quality is con-
served or injured.
Milling is an art of its own. The main fea-
tures of milling, after the proper wheat selec-
tions, are cleaning and tempering the wheat
berry and separating it into the different
classes or grades demanded by the baker and
the general market. It is not generally known
that the strongest gluten comes from nearest
the bran. The more soluble proteins and
starches are from the inside of the berry. But
milling is another industry, at present, too
distinctly separate to be combined with bak-
ing. While the progressive miller studies
BREAD FACTS 75
wheats from all sections and of all strengths,
the baker must be equally free to pick for flour
quality. In selecting flour the baker is inter-
ested in
the moisture content,
the quantity and quality of the gluten,
the flavor, and
the final way in which the flour bakes up.
The moisture of wheats vary, but American
wheats are lower in moisture than European
wheats. The moisture content of the average
good flour furnished the American baker
should be around thirteen per cent. Water is
used in milling to temper the wheat, but it is
possible to go beyond and increase the mois-
ture content of the flour above that neces-
sary to temper. Flour may lose moisture
after milling and thus lose in weight. It is
more apt to lose moisture than to gain mois-
ture. A condition which causes it to gain
moisture is not good for either its flavor or
gluten quality. Flour is best stored in a dry
temperature of from 75 to 80 degrees F. free
from foreign odors. Excessive moisture or
excessive heat injures gluten quality. The
76 BREAD FACTS
moisture test is one of the daily necessary tests
in the scientific control of baking. If enough
flour is used, the laboratory can pay its way by
watching the moisture content of the flour.
And when the moisture content and gluten
strength are known the proper absorption and
fermentation can be determined for the dough
mix.
The quantity and quality of the gluten
varies with wheat varieties, districts where
grown, the condition of the season, the aging
and protection of the wheat, the milling
and the proper conditioning or aging of the
flour.
Wheats that produce excellence in gluten
content come from the northern, middle and
southern American states, of what may be
called the American plains — from Minnesota,
the Dakotas andMontana, south through Okla-
homa, into Texas. Other lands where wheats
of high gluten strength are produced are
Canada, eastern and southern Russia, Rou-
mania and southern Argentina. 1 1 is estimated
that Canada, alone, has one hundred and fifty
million acres capable of producing wheat of
BREAD FACTS 77
this class, not over seven per cent of which is
now in cultivation. The entire wheat acreage
in the United States for 1920 is given at fifty-
three million acres.
Gluten does not exist in flour as such, but is
formed from the glutenin, gliaden and other
elements of the flour proteins. Chemists are
studying the relation of the elements of gluten
to gluten strength. This involves the chem-
istry of both proteins and enzymes — two of the
most difficult, the most interesting fields in
chemistry.
78 BREAD FACTS
APPLIED SCIENCE AT THE
BAKERY
The words "research," "applied science,"
"laboratory," and "chemist" have a far-away
meaning to many in the baking industry.
But the good superintendent of baking, though
he may not know it, practices daily in the
fields of chemistry, physics and other sciences.
He knows the method which produces the
results; in many cases he knows the under-
lying cause. But experiment and testing in
the bake shop are costly, uncertain and
inconvenient. Enough has been demonstrated
to show the opportunities in adding scientific
control to practical experience.
Any baker with his face set towards prog-
ress can make the start. Make a visit to the
agricultural college. Pick a sophomore, a
second year man, who has found himself and
demonstrated his sticking qualities. Let it be
a boy who stands well among his fellows, and
who is, at least in part, earning his way
through college. Talk the matter over with
the dean of his course, and suggest that the
BREAD FACTS /Q
boy take some studies related to cereals and
ferrnentation, with his chemistry and bacter-
iology. When the summer months come, offer
the boy work in the bake shop, in the actual
operations connected with the dough. At the
end of the summer he will return to college
with a large part of your problem on his mind.
Bring him back again during the summer
before his senior year. When he graduates
send him for a few months to the American
Institute of Baking. Make him feel your per-
sonal interest in him; sell him heart and soul
to the opportunity for clean work, for happy
work, for public service as well as profit in the
baking of good bread. Make him feel that
this opportunity can be fully realized in your
organization. Remember that his mind has
been started to work during his college days
and never forget this important point in deal-
ing with him.
The next step is your laboratory. The
plant ovens are the best for baking experi-
mental doughs, and you will not need a labor-
atory oven. The balance of the equipment,
8o BREAD FACTS
for beginning, may be listed, at present prices,
as follows:
General Equipment and Furniture
Proofing cabinet $40.00
Yeast testing cabinet 25.00
Electric drying oven 1 15.00
Analytical balance 50.0c
Muffle furnace 80.00
Moulding table for baking tests $25.00 to 50.00
Table for oven and muffle furnace 15.00
Table for analytical balance 15.00
Table for washing glutens 15.00
Sink and drain board with hot and cold water 100.00
Set weights for analytical balance — 100 gms — 5 mg —
lacquered 12.00
Microscope $100.00 to 200.00
Plumbing and gas connections, not to exceed 200.00
Glass Ware and Small Accessories for Yeast Testing
4 Jars, Chidlow gas collection graduated to iSoocc. in 20cc.
division accessory bottler, tubing and rubber stopper. ...$30.00
Glass Ware and Small Accessories for WashingGlutens
2 — I gal. capacity pottery bowk, white inside 1.50
6— porcelain cups .50
I — ^spatula flexible steel with wooden handle 5" blade 30
I — spatula steel non-flexible blade at both ends 25
2 — ^pipettes Mohr's graduated in i-iocc i.oo
I — ^aluminum weighing scoop and counterpoise 3.35
Glass Ware and Accessories for Ash Test
6 — Silica dishes 6.00
6omm diam.
13mm deep
Accessories for Baking Tests
6 — mixing bowls with covers to be used for mixing and fer-
menting the dough 3.00
BREAD FACTS 8i
I —balance baker's scale with funnel scoop and counterpoise
$15.00
I — ^set weights, brass in wood block igm. — to — looogms.. 5.00
6 — wide mouth glass jars pint size 60
necessary covered jars for holding sugar, salt, shortening,
etc 2.00
I — 500CC. glass graduated cylinder 1.25
I — loocc. glass graduated cylinder 75
I — bread knife lor cutting bread and dough i.oo
I — large spatula, flexible blade i.oo
Accessories for Moisture Test
6 — dishes, aluminum flat bottom with slip in lid 2.00
diameter.... 58mm
height 17mm
Miscellaneous Equipment, not to exceed 50.00
TTiis laboratory equipped as above is designed for making the
following tests:
ash
gas production
moisture
On Yeast tests
On Flour
absorption
wet gluten
dry gluten
Tests on other baking
baking tests
materials
The chemist has already learned to mix,
mould, proof and bake a loaf of bread. Put
him to studying how to produce a better
loaf, from different flours and different ingred-
ients. Put him to testing flours, the moisture
content, gluten quantity and quality and how
best to handle a particular flour in your shop.
His skill will increase with the number and
variety of flour samples tested and baked into
loaves. From flour, his interest will expand
8i BREAD FACTS
towards oils, milk products, yeast, flavoring
extracts and the long list of bakery supplies
offered the bread and cake baker, soaps and
cleaning powders, gasoline, lubricating oils.
He will need more apparatus as he goes along,
and as he shows you the particular need and
usefulness to your business.
If he is the kind that will turn it to good
account and not waste time, have him keep in
touch with the local medical society, the high
school chemist and domestic science teacher,
the woman's club and other civic organizations.
The opportunity to build up public confidence
for your plant and your bread will be well
worth the interest he takes.
In making tests of foods, the methods of the
Association of Official Agricultural Chemists
are reliable and at once available. He will
need a small library to begin with, including a
half dozen of the scientific journals. Have him
start a systematic record plan of all tests and
all experimental bakes; have him make suffi-
cient tests and bakes to be sure of his facts.
Suggest that he start loose leaf note books into
which every item of interest relating to either
BREAD FACTS 83
the science or economics of baking will be
brought together, making duplicate copies for
your own use.
With your interest, backing and patience,
his work will soon begin to show on the credit
side of your costs sheets and in the increased
quality and better uniformity of your bread.
The rest will take care of itself. The methods
worked out and used in the Ward Laboratories
for testing flour are as follows:
** Weigh out carefully lo gr. of flour in dup-
licate ; place in a small dish or suitable recept-
acle; add 5 8-10 to 6 cc. of water to spring and
hard wheat flours. If soft winter flour use
53^ cc. After adding the water to the flour
make into a smooth dough by means of
spatula. Be sure the dough is well collected
into a smooth ball of dough. Cover dough
with water at a temperature of 80° Fah-
renheit. Allow hard winter and spring flours
to stand one hour ; soft winter flours, wash out
glutens immediately after doughing up. The
gluten is now ready for washing. i3^ to 2
liters of tap water — 80° Fahrenheit are taken
in a suitable bowl and the glutens are washed,
taking a piece of dough in each hand. The
dough should be washed very carefully in
84 BREAD FACTS
the beginning so as not to scatter the gluten.
After gluten collects doughs can be washed
more vigorously. In working be careful to
collect any scattered gluten which may collect
in bottom of bowl. Washing in the first
water should take about ten minutes. This
will get rid of the greater portion of the
starch. The glutens are now removed and
the water poured from the receptacle. Be
careful to note whether any small pieces of
gluten remain in the receptacle. If so, collect
them with the piece of gluten obtained from
the flour. A fresh sample of tap water is now
taken, 80° Fahrenheit, and the final washing
of the gluten made. This should take from
twelve to fifteen minutes, the glutens being
alternated every four or five minutes ; that is,
the gluten washed in the right hand for four
or five minutes and vice versa. This change is
necessary because the two hands do not work
the dough equally and by changing from one
hand to the other we find that we get more
uniform results. When the gluten is com-
pletely washed it is dried between the fingers
to a point where the gluten just begins to
stick to the fingers. It is then placed on a
piece of paper and weighed, using a tare piece
of paper to balance piece holding the wet
gluten. This weight multiplied by ten gives
BREAD FACTS 85
the per cent of wet gluten in the flour. The
gluten is now baked in an oven at 1 50° C. from
twenty to thirty minutes and then placed in a
drying oven at io5°C. for at least twelve
hours. The weight of dry gluten multiplied by
ten gives the per cent of dry gluten in the
flour. The ratio of wet to dry gluten can then
be calculated. We find that by carefully
washing the glutens the duplicate glutens
should check within i-io of i per cent and
not vary more than 2-10 of i per cent. We also
find that different manipulators get uniform
results when using this method. It is a
significant fact that the higher the ratio,
wet to dry gluten for a given flour, that is, for
a spring or a hard winter flour, the better the
baking quality. A good spring flour should
have a ratio of three to one ; the hard winter,
3.1 to 3.2 to I ; soft winter flours which are
washed immediately after doughing, the ratio
of wet to dry is 3 to i . The ratio of wet to dry
gluten for a given type of flour depends upon
the grade of flour. The lower the grade the
lower the ratio of wet to dry gluten."
86 BREAD FACTS
ARKADY
Arkady is a yeast food. The word stands
for the initials of Robert Kennedy Duncan,
first director of the Mellon Institute at Pitts-
burgh. To the hundreds of American bakers
daily using Arkady, it means better bread and
increased bread sales. The baker who learns
Arkady, learns what it is to make a better loaf.
It brings standardization into his shop and a
better control over the dough batch. It saves
yeast, for it feeds yeast. It saves flour and
sugar from fermentation loss, for it helps the
yeast do its work on the living, budding grow-
ing side, instead of on the destruction side of
fermentation. The combination of mineral
salts in Arkady was put together, after long
and patient experiment, for the central purpose
of standardizing the waters used in baking.
The result did the job, standardized the waters,
made up the deficiencies in mineral salts needed
for a healthful fermentation in the dough, and
produced the better loaf of bread. But in a
trial in baking, it was found that the average
amount of yeast generally used had to be de-
creased. Further use and continued study
BREAD FACTS 87
proved that Arkady cut the fermentation
losses one half. Visualize a hundred barrels
of flour. Four of them are burned up into
leavening gas, in the dough process. Two of
these barrels are saved from the loss through
the use of Arkady. Visualize a hundred
barrels of sugar for bread making. From
thirty to fifty of them will be used up by the
yeast in the fermentation trough. Arkady
saves at least fifteen of them from waste ; saves
them into the loaf to give more bloom, more
flavor, more food value ; or saves them to the
other sugar needs, in times of sugar shortage.
Arkady has shown what science can do for
baking. Robert Kennedy Duncan was a pro-
fessor in the University of Kansas. He saw
what science was doing for the dairyman, the
farmer, the wheat grower. He followed on
with his idea. Why should not science extend
its investigations to the whole field of human
effort? What about the food products after
they reached the factory for preparation for
the consumer ? What about the helpfulness of
science in these fields? Why do foods spoil?
How could the spoilage be prevented ? What
88 BREAD FACTS
about the laundryman ? What about the rela-
tion of chemistry to the soil on clothes and
removal without weakening the fiber of the
garment? And so he joined his ideas with the
big human interest and money of the Mellons
at Pittsburgh. And the Ward Baking Company
was one of the first industries to seek the help
of the Institute.
Mr, George S. Ward, President of the Ward
Baking Company, stated in 19 17 the early
history of the development of Arkady as
follows :
"About six years ago, in an effort to stan-
dardize our product, our company, operating
in different cities and having a natural desire
to have our bread equal in one city to what it
was in another, endeavored to standardize
it, and in doing that we found some difficulties
in our fermentation problems which we could
not understand. Upon closer study we dis-
covered that the hardness of water, or the
softness of water, as the case might be, affected
the fermentation. In other words, notwith-
standing the fact that we had laboratory con-
trol of the raw material — the raw material
coming from exactly the same sources, the
flour from the same mills — in spite of that, we
BREAD FACTS 8q
were not able to make the same bread in
Boston as we did in the city of New York, or
the city of Pittsburgh, or the city of Cleveland,
and we finally hit upon the fact that it was
because of the difference in the water.
"About that time in Pittsburgh some public
spirited men, namely : A. W. and R. B. Mellon,
opened up the Mellon Institute for Industrial
Research. I took our problem to him and to Dr.
Duncan, Director of the Institute, and our com-
pany established fellowships to undertake re-
search in bread making. The water problem was
taken up at once by Dr. Duncan and his staff,
and they soon found that the mineral salts in
the water had an influence on the action of the
yeast in bread making. They set to work to
try out varying amounts and different com-
binations of mineral salts as generally found in
water, in experimental baking. When the
combination of mineral salts as now used in
Arkady was reached they baked up loaves of
bread with and without these salts, and each
time the loaf made with Arkady was selected
by us as the better loaf.
* We then asked about the wholesomeness of
the process, and the Mellon Institute replied
that it was entirely wholesome. We went
further, and submitted Arkady to medical
go BREAD FACTS
experts of high standing. In each case they
reported not only that it was wholesome but
added to the food value of the bread. The
conservation and yeast-saving facts reported
from the Mellon Institute were submitted to
and confirmed by a large number of chemists
connected with some of the best known uni-
versities, colleges, and research laboratories.
All of our facts have been submitted to the
Federal and State pure food officials. The
Ward Baking Company, has made the fullest
effort in its own investigations to establish the
truth, the full truth, and we have been equally
interested in throwing all of these facts on top
of the table, so that all who may be interested
in the scientific progress of the baking industry
— bakers, pure food officials, legislators, press
and public — may study for themselves what
has been accomplished and proved."
The establishment of Arkady is a story with
a deep human interest. The investigations
connected with it have reached from the
Mellon Institute into many of the leading
laboratories of the country. Scientists of
national and international reputation have
turned from other work to confirm and extend
the facts connected with it, and the yeast food,
BREAD FACTS qi
conservation and better bread making claims,
established in the laboratory have been fol-
lowed on out into the bakeries, large and small,
and the facts further demonstrated under the
joint supervision of the scientists and baking
experts in actual bakings. The opponents of
Arkady have pulled it from the scientists and
public health boards into politics, where think-
ing and independent majorities in the legisla-
tive bodies where it was brought to trial have
pronounced in its favor. Wherever scientist
or baker, legislator or editor, army officer or
mess sergeant have looked into its facts, have
seen its bread making results, it has won on
its merits and on the level.
Arkady is new in application; old in prin-
ciple. It puts nothing new into bread ; nothing
that flours, salt, waters, malt extracts, milk and
other ingredients do not put into bread. But it
was a new way, with a definite, dependable,
measurable, and temporarily competing result.
It was thought that it would hurt yeast. Yeast
experts, of long experience in the science of
fermentation, said that the Arkady salts would
not feed yeast. Today one of the Arkady salts
Q2 BREAD FACTS
is being used in the production of a large part
of the yeast supply. And so, at first an aid to
yeast in the making of bread, one of its salts has
become an aid to the yeast maker in making
yeast; it has revolutionized yeast making.
One of the salts in Arkady is calcium sul-
phate, refined, soluble calcium sulphate. Bread,
as pointed out in the chapter on the food value
of bread is deficient in calcium. Wheat is
richer in phosphates, and phosphates need
their calcium balance, both for better yeast
action and for better human nutrition. All of
the calcium salts were tried out ; but the little,
mysterious yeast plant seemed to like best, to
thrive best with the lime salt, calcium sul-
phate. This salt was chosen as basis for the
attack against the process, and in 19 1 5 Arkady
was hailed before the Public Health Com-
mittees of the Massachusetts Legislature. No
one could pronounce it unwholesome; no one
would say that it lowered the nutritive value
of the bread. The only thing its opponents
could find wrong with it was that it was new
and the opposition secured the passage of an
act which named a list of baking ingredients
BREAD FACTS qj
that could be used without labeling and
required any ingredient "not commonly sold
at retail as food to be labeled." Since Arkady
was new the loaves of bread containing it were
labeled, but consumers continued to eat the
bread.
In 19 1 7, the law of 191 5 having failed of its
trade fight purpose, the attack on Arkady was
renewed before the Massachusetts Legislature.
The Ward Baking Company went before the
committees and legislature with the wealth of
fact which it had accumulated behind Arkady,
and went to the public with these facts through
an extensive advertising campaign, and not
only defeated the bill by a decisive vote but
greatly increased the sale of its bread.
Among the American experts that have
investigated and confirmed the Arkady facts
are the following :
Dr. Robert Kennedy Duncan, and Drs.
H. A. Kohman and Charles Hoffman and
Messrs. Lauren H. Ashe, Truman M. Godfrey
Alfred E. Blake, who conducted the investi-
gation leading to its discovery, and
Dr. Raymond F. Bacon, Director Mellon
Institute, Pittsburgh.
Q4 BREAD FACTS
Dr. Alice G. Blood, Professor of Nutrition,
Simmons College, Boston.
Dr. Wm. F. Boos, former Expert for Federal
Government in Physiological Chemistry and
Medicine, Boston.
Dr. Frederick E. Breithut of the College of
the City of New York.
Miss L. A. Cauble, Investigator for New
York Association for the Improvement of the
Poor.
Dr. Worth Hale, Professor of Pharmacology,
Harvard Medical School, recently with Federal
Bureau of Public Health ; Government Expert
in many Pure Food and Drug cases.
Prof. Carl Miner, Chief Miner Laboratory,
Chicago.
Prof. Herbert R. Moody, College of the City
of New York.
Dr. James F. Norris, Professor of Chemistry,
Mass. Inst, of Technology.
Dr. Wm. H. Walker, Professor of Chemistry,
Mass. Inst, of Technology.
Dr. C. E. A. Winslow, Professor of Public
Health, Yale University.
Dr. A. G. Woodman, Professor of Food
Chemistry, Mass. Inst, of Technology.
BREAD FACTS q5
In 19 1 7 Professor John P. Street, State
Analyst of Connecticut, referee on bread for the
joint food standards commission appointed
from the United States Department of Agricul-
ture, the American Associations of State
and Federal Pure Food and Drug Officials, and
Association of Official Agriculture Chemists,
and acting as State Analyst for Connecticut,
made a thorough investigation of yeast food,
and particularly of the mineral salts contained
in Arkady because of the newness in applica-
tion to bread. Professor Street's report is
published in the 22nd report on Food Products
of the Connecticut Agriculture Experiment
Station, Bulletin 200, December, 191 7. Pro-
fessor Street deals directly with Arkady. On
the question of conservation. Professor Street
says :
"In every test the non-Arkady breads
showed the greater loss in dry matter. This
ranged from 1.340 to 21.006 lbs.; the Arkady
breads showed losses of from 0.675 to 13.155
lbs. ; in both cases the losses varying to a con-
siderable extent with the amount of flour used.
The percentage loss of dry matter in the non-
Arkady breads ranged from 2.41 to 5. 12 and in
qb BREAD FACTS
the Arkady breads from 0.53 to 3.25. Al-
though there are considerable variations in the
decreased losses of dry matter where Arkady
was used, it is a striking fact that in every test
the Arkady bread showed a lower loss, ranging
from 0.60 to 2.49, average, 1.60 per cent.
"In other words, in making 2,414 loaves of
bread weighing 3,505 lbs., the use of 11.878
lbs. of Arkady allowed the saving of 22.93 lbs.
of flour, 10.125 lbs. of sugar, 2.875 lbs. of salt,
14.00 lbs. of yeast and i.oo lb. of malt
extract, or a total net saving in raw materials
of 39.052 lbs. At the same time 40.15 lbs. of
the dry matter of the dough was saved from
unnecessary destruction by the yeast ferments.
Calculating these results to the basis of i ,000
1.5 lb. loaves of bread, the saving in ingred-
ients following the use of Arkady were as
follows :
Saved Used in Addition
9.50 lbs. flour 4.92 lbs. Arkady —
4.19 " sugar
1. 19 " salt
5.80 ** yeast
0.41 ** Roloco
In addition to the above, 16.63 lbs. of the
dry matter of the dough was saved per thou-
sand 1.5 lb. loaves. When one considers the
BREAD FACTS q/
1
millions of loaves of bread made annually such
a conservation as is shown by tests is well
worthy of careful attention/'
On the general food value and wholesome-
ness Professor Street states :
''It is apparent, therefore, that the use of
Arkady does not increase the moisture content
of the bread, that it slightly increases its food
value, and that it in no way decreases the
bread's digestibility."
Every pound of yeast during its period of
active fermentation in the bread dough burns
up an average of four pounds of flour in pro-
ducing leavening gas. Think this big fact over.
Four barrels in every hundred barrels of flour
are burned up by the yeast into gas. Only
one-half of this gas is needed to raise the
dough. The other half is WASTE.
Arkady Yeast Food stops this waste and it
saves for the general food supply of the country
out of each year's supply of baking materials
— Six Months^ Supply of Yeast
— Two Months Supply of Sugar
— One Week's Supply of Flour
q8 bread facts
In the extensive investigations surrounding
Arkady Yeast Food, American scientists and
baking experts have just completed the most
thorough and exhaustive study of fermenta-
tion losses in bread making ever made.
Seventy-six of the baking tests made were
checked by two or more independent experts.
The average American bread formula was
followed : Thirty-eight of the bakes were made
with the usual amount of yeast and no Arkady
and thirty-eight of the bakes with Arkady and
but one-half of the usual amount of yeast.
The average percentage of fermentation loss
of dry, water-free flour material burned up by
the yeast in the production of leavening gas
stands in these tests as follows:
Without Arkady Yeast Food 3-9%
With Arkady YeastFood ^-3%
Conservation of Food Material in
favor of Arkady i •^%
Sample loaves of known weight were taken
for moisture determinations. The results of
the analysis of tests show fermentation losses
BREAD FACTS
QQ
in detail in percentage of
follows :
Hoffman Analyst, Ward Plant
dry material as
New Haven Plant
U. S. Army Washington Barracks
Indianapolis Plant
Street Analyst, Ward Plant
New Haven Plant
U. S. Army Washington Barracks
Miner Analyst, Chicago Plant
«• 4> »% »>
Robinson Analyst, Detroit Plant
Per cent
Per cent.
Loss With'
Loss With
out Arkady
Arkady
4.73
3.84
4.03
2.38
3 -49
i.qg
3.82
2.16
2.78
2.18
331
2.70
3.48
2.31
2.32
1.50
3.60
2.1Q
3.4
2.05
3.45
2.17
3.10
1.80
2.51
1.26
2.61
2.01
2.85
0.83
5.16
3.41
4.07
i.oq
3.34
I.2Q
3.60
2.ig
I.QO
0.65
3.6q
1.64
6.6
4.3Q
5.53
1.24
3.18
o.gi
5.66
2.76
5-77
4.21
3-55
1.87
6.35
4.6
7.28
2.6q
1-34
1. 01
2.45
.7Q
3.09
1.07
2.48
.50
4.88
3.55
4.23
2.02
6.34
4.Q7
5.56
5.32
4.10
3.41
loo BREAD FACTS
The use of Arkady in bread making,
Saves Yeast to the extent of 50 per cent of
the amount usually required.
Conserves Flour and Sugar : From 1 3^ to 2
per cent of the flour and from 15 to 20 per
cent of the sugar usually added to the dough
batch are saved from destruction by the yeast
into unnecessary leavening gas.
Produces a Better Loaf with better flavor
through a better fermentation in the dough,
with more spring and life in the oven, resulting
in a loaf of better texture and bloom.
How these claims have made good with the
bakers is shown in a letter from a scientific
service for bakers to its clients in August,
1920, as follows:
"Our laboratory, our expert bakers, and all
of our big list of clients who subscribe for our
technical service, agree that ARKADY is one
of the greatest discoveries of the age.
I . has made its way by sheer merit, in the
face of skepticism and, at times, of violent
opposition. Today the largest and best in-
formed bakers in the country use it.
BREAD FACTS loi
It DOES save yeast and it DOES save
sugar. These savings more than offset its
cost.
But the big thing is that it makes better
bread.
We KNOW that ARKADY will give you
better control of your fermentation, more
spring in the oven, better texture, better flavor
and bloom.
Besides, it will save flour, sugar and yeast
far beyond its cost. Here, then, is BETTER
BREAD AT LESS COST/'
At the Washington, D. C, barracks in the
heat of the summer of 19 17 Arkady was given
its first test in the Army. It was a severe test.
The mixing was done by hand, the doughs
raised and proved in a tent and baked in a
portable field oven. Two doughs were carried
through, one with the usual amount of yeast
used in the Army formula, and one with one-
half the usual amount of the yeast and one
pound of Arkady per barrel of flour. When the
loaves came from the oven the superiority of
the Arkady loaf was outstanding. Baking
I02 BREAD FACTS
tests were made in seventeen more Army
camps, and the result is told in a letter to the
Company from a Lieutenant Colonel in charge
of the Army baking, as follows:
"I am glad to advise you that the Quarter-
master General of the Army has instructed
Durchasing Quartermasters to carry yeast food
lereafter in the local commissaries for use in
bread making in the Army Bakeries.
In this connection, I wish to state to you
that I have tried out, under my personal super-
vision, the use of Arkady Yeast Food and
found it came up to all that was claimed for it
by its manufacturers.
I take this occasion to express my apprecia-
tion of the patriotic offer of the Ward Baking
Company to allow the Government to pur-
chase Arkady Yeast Food at the cost of manu-
facture during the period of the existing war."
After this the Government sent some three
million pounds of Arkady over-seas. Each
pound of this Arkady saved the shipment of
around four pounds of the grain consumed in
making a pound of yeast, protected two
pounds of flour from fermentation loss and
made a better loaf of bread for the soldier. In
BREAD FACTS 103
the Amaroc, an ofificial daily newspaper of the
American Army, in its issue of May ist, 19 19,
a writer on "How Good Bread Is Supplied For
Army," states:
"The month of April in the Coblenz bakery
saw an average output which is maintained by
the 1 2 other bakeries of the Third Army which
cover all parts of the area. During the month,
650,000 pounds of flour were used with other
ingredients to produce 825,000 pounds or
412,500 loaves of light and delectable white
bread. With the huge amount of flour was
used, 9,500 pounds of sugar; as many of salt
and lard; and 3,200 pounds of yeast, to make
bread for the troops of the Coblenz area. This
large output also necessitated the use of 4,700
pounds of Arkady Yeast Food."
Another instance is in a letter from an Army
Sergeant, as follows :
"The way I knew about Arkady, I was in
the Army and was a baker. I used hundreds
of sacks of Arkady Yeast Food and we baked
good bread and when I came home I wanted
the same kind of bread. I wouldn't think of
baker's bread without it."
I04 BREAD FACTS
Such, in brief, is the story of Arkady. As
the letter from the scientific baking service
company just quoted says :
**It has made its way by sheer merit in the
face of skepticism and, at times, a violent
opposition."
But all of this is over, and the process not
only stands as one of the foremost advances
in the science of baking, but a new policy in
trade has been established. The Ward Baking
Company is putting the well tried-out results
of its research at the disposal of all of the
bakers, not only to bakers in territories where
it does not sell bread, but equally so in terri-
tories where it sells bread on the basis of a
reasonable profit; in fact, a far greater profit
to those who use it than to those who make it.
Private research must be financed. Patent
protection is the reward which the Govern-
ment has established for those who are willing
to seek facts and apply them to useful purpose.
The use in baking of the mineral salts con-
tained in Arkady Yeast Food have been
patented. The next chapter will be the
establishment of the Arkady patent rights in
B READ FACTS 105
the courts, against that minority in the field of
trade who, without sowing, without hoeing
and cultivating, risking and waiting, are,
nevertheless, ever present to make appro-
priations to themselves after the usefulness of
the invention has been established.
lofe BREAD FACTS
THE STORY OF AN AMERICAN
BUSINESS SUCCESS
THIS is a story of an
American business
success — a story of Ward's
Bread and how, from a
modest beginning in a small,
old-fashioned building and
an output of a few hundred
loaves a day, the business
has grown and grown until
today Ward's products are
made in fifteen huge, modern and sanitary
bakeries with a combined daily output of over
a million loaves of bread and a quarter of a
million cakes.
It was in 1849 that Hugh Ward arrived from
Ireland and opened a bakery in a small build-
ing on Broome Street, New York City, a
photograph of which is reproduced at the top
of this page. A few years later he decided to
locate in Pittsburgh, Pa., which decision he
carried out and in a short time was again
engaged in the bread business and introducing
BREAD FACTS 107
to the people of the then "smoky city" Ward's
Bread.
At the early age of eight years, Robert B»
Ward, the son of Hugh Ward, and founder and
organizer of the present company, owing to
the great scarcity of labor, caused by the civil
war which was then in progress, was obliged to
assist his father in the bake-shop and from
that time up to the age of twenty-one years,
less the time spent in public school, devoted
himself to acquiring an expert and practical
knowledge of bread making.
A few years later he bought out a small
bakery and started in the bread business for
himself in that section of the city of Pittsburgh
known as the "East End". In later years he
associated with himself his youngest brother,
George S. Ward, who had succeeded his father
and knew what it was to bake and deliver
bread before going to school each morning, and
together they formed the firm of R. B. Ward
8z Company. The company thus formed was
remarkably successful and continued to pros-
per until in 1897 its growth and expansion had
reached such proportions that more capital
io8 BREAD FACTS
was required and so the firm of R. B. Ward 8z
Company was merged into a company known
as the Ward-Mackey Company.
The business of the new company continued
to increase and it was soon recognized that it
would be necessary to enlarge the manufactur-
ing facilities to keep up with the ever growing
demand for Ward's Bread. The Wards, there-
fore, decided to erect a modern, sanitary,
bread making plant and this resolution was
realized on July 7th, 1903, on which date their
modern Pittsburgh bakery began the making
of Ward's Bread. So far ahead of other bread
making establishments was this new plant and
so complete and up-to-date its equipment that
today, seventeen years after its erection, it still
stands in the front rank among model bread
bakeries and a tribute to the enterprise and
farseeing business intelligence of Mr. R. B.
Ward and Mr. George S. Ward, the men who
had the courage and the pioneer spirit to erect
the first sanitary and scientific bakery in
America.
The popularity of Ward's Bread in Pitts-
burgh increased by leaps and bounds and not
BREAD FACTS loq
long after the opening of the new Pittsburgh
bakery it was decided that, since Ward's
Bread had become the leading seller in the
Pittsburgh district there was no reason why its
quality, purity and cleanliness should not find
equal favor among the people of other cities.
And so, the next few years witnessed the
further growth of the company and bakeries
were built and successfullyoperated in the cities
of Chicago, Cleveland, Boston and Providence.
In 191 1 the Wards decided to return to New
York where their father and grandfather had
first begun business in this country. In that
year they organized the Ward Baking Com-
pany and erected in the cities of New York and
Brooklyn two immense plants with a combined
capacity of over a half million loaves a day.
The opening of these wonderful bakeries and
the announcement of the Wards that they
proposed to supply the people of Greater New
York with bread which surpassed all other
kinds in quality and purity and above all, in
cleanliness, was welcomed by the people of the
metropolis, who immediately responded with
liberal patronage as proof of their appreciation.
no BREAD FACTS
And true to their promise the Wards did
make and offer for sale a loaf of bread — the
famous Tip-Top bread — which in texture,
taste and cleanliness, eating qualities and
keeping qualities was far superior to any loaf
ever bought by the people of the world's
greatest city.
Another distinctive feature of Ward's Tip-
Top Bread was the method of delivering it.
Horses, harness and stables had no place in the
Ward way of delivering the ''staff of life". Since
the bread was made amid surroundings of
spotless cleanliness it was resolved to practice
the same rule in the delivery of it and so every
loaf was delivered in electric motor vehicles
driven by clean cut, healthy salesmen, uni-
formed and gloved in white.
A short time later another huge plant was
erected in Newark, N. J., to supply the people
of that city and other New Jersey towns with
Ward's Bread and this bakery, too, is a real
Ward establishment and like the other bread
making institutions bearing the Ward name,
a veritable snow-white temple of cleanli-
ness.
BREAD FACTS iii
Ward's Bread was made when the tallow
candle was still a utility in almost every home.
Long before the advent of the incandescent
lamp, the telephone, the telegraph and even
the sewing machine it was the daily bread of
many American families. Ward wagons in
those days rattled over cobble paved streets,
passing flickering gas lamps on their early
morning delivery of bread to the dealers. Day
by day since that time it has grown in public
favor. Today there are sixty-six kinds of
Ward's bread and rolls and twenty-three kinds
of Ward's Cakes, all made "the Ward Way,"
the "Clean Way," in fifteen modern bakeries
located in the cities of New York, Brooklyn,
Newark, Chicago, Cleveland, Pittsburgh,
Boston, Providence and Baltimore.
The rise of this great business from obscurity
to the proud position it holds today is a monu-
ment to the courage of those who founded it
and carried it on to its present day supremacy
and their constant maintaining of the product
to the company's standard of "Quality, Purity
and Cleanliness."